You can use your power saw to cut imitation wood picture frames but you must replace the blade.
How to Build Imitation Wood Picture Frames
Blades with higher teeth (80 teeth or more) are recommended for real wood mouldings, but this is too many teeth for cutting imitation wood frames.
For best results, replace your higher tooth blade with a 40 tooth blade (or lower) to cut imitation wood frames. This will reduce the heat the saw generates.
Too much heat can cause imitation wood frames to melt, so move the blade quickly through the moulding to avoid heat build up.
Imitation wood frames cut easily with no resistance. After cutting, line up the mouldings side by side so the miters are flush and test for exact length. If you need to sand, go ahead. Imitation wood frames are easily sanded on a manual rotary sander.
Imitation wood frames are assembled using Plastibond Glue formulated specifically for joining them. It’s a fast acting glue that bonds strongly, much like Super Glue.
Apply the glue to one of the miter faces. Don’t overdo it. The bond is so strong that a little glue goes a long way.
Press the two miters together to form a corner. Try to move quickly from corner to corner as the glue dries quickly.
Lay your band clamp slack around the frame so that you will be ready to clamp as soon as the four corners are pressed together.
Turn the ratcheting device on your band clamp to close the joints tightly.
Leave your frame in the band clamp for five minutes. The resulting joints are so strong that you will not need to nail the frame. But if you want to drive V-nails at the joints, go ahead. Imitation wood frames can take medium/soft V-nails.
Use the EZ-Finish Mounting and Hanging Kit to mount the art, hold the contents in the frame, and attach the hanging hardware.